Today I’m gonna share with you the most recent garment I made, a nightdress. It’s the same pattern that we used in the semi finals: the Nightdress from Det Store Symesterskapet.
The Nightdress pattern
The pattern is from Det Store Symesterskapet book, but as there are no instructions for the pattern in the book, I was glad I had made it once before.
If you have the book and want to try out the pattern I have listed the different steps I used below. Please note that all the patterns in the book are excluding seam allowances, so you will have to add that when you trace the pattern.
I chose to make french seams on the center back seam and the side seams. If you don’t want to do that there are several other ways to finish the seam allowance when you sew the seams: overlock seams, zigzag, etc.
To get the best possible result, all the vertical seams should be sewn from the bottom and up. This is to avoid any twisting of the seams. You can also baste the pieces together first if you want to make sure the fabric don’t slip. As a bonus this allows you to try the nightdress on for fitting before sewing the seams once and for all.
I also suggest that you press the seams gently after each operation to get the best result. If you need any other tips on sewing with silk, I have written about the tricks I use here.
How to sew the nightdress from Det Store Symesterskapet:
- Sew the center back seam either with french seam or another sewm of your choice.
- Fold in the top of the back piece and make the drawstring channel.
- Insert the elastic drawstring and baste it in place in one of the sides, but leave it hanging loose out of the other for adjusting later on.
- Fold once and sew a straight stitch on the bottom of the front facing.
- Fold and sew the shoulder straps right sides together, turn and press.
- Stay stitch the top of front and front facing for more stability.
- Bast the shoulder straps to the front piece with the seams on the straps facing towards the armholes.
- Sew the front facing to the front piece in the armholes and on top. Make sure to use small stitches and to secure the should straps with some extra stitches when you get to them.
- Turn the front right side out and understitch the seam allowance to the front facing.
- Bast the front facing to the front piece at the sides.
- Put front and back pieces together and sew the side seam on the side where you basted the elastic to the back piece.
- Sew the other side seam up to the drawstring. Try the night dress on and adjust the elastic to your liking.
- Sew and secure the side seam at the drawstring.
- Pin and fit the shoulder straps in equal distance from the center back seam.
- Sew the shoulder straps to the back at the bottom of the drawstring, and secure on top of the back piece with hand or machine stitches.
- Embellish the front and make a gathering of some sort to give the chest area shape.
- Finish the bottom hem with stretch lace or other finishing technique.
And then you are done. 🙂
French seams at the side seams
Making my nightdress
I bough the silk satin fabric in Copenhagen for just this purpose. Unfortunately I only bought 1 meter, which is too little because of the 45 degree angle. I should have gotten 1,5-2 meters. That meant that I had to shorten the dress with about 15 cm to make it fit on my fabric.
One other thing I should have done was to make a size S in the top, and a size M in the hips, but instead I made a straight size S. Because of this the dress is a little tight over my bum, but I can still use it. For my next version I will make the Small bust and Medium hips.
I also didn’t have any stretch lace to fit on the bottom of the night dress. Instead I used a rolling hem on my coverlock. It isn’t as nice, but it’s not ugly either.
Pattern: Silk nightdress from Det Store Symesterskapet book.
All in all I’m very happy with my new nightdress. It is heaven to sleep in, and it can function as a slip underneath my dresses during daytime if I need it.