Newsboy cap / sixpence for my husband

Newsboy cap / sixpence for my husband

Hello there. This time I’m going to show you some sewing I did for my husband recently. A newsboy cap in wool and cashmere tweed. I wanted to sew something for my husband in between all the wedding dress sewing, as he needed a pick-me-up here the other day. I knew that a sixpence was on his wishlist – together with a new pair of trousers and some other stuff. This cap is a easy 1-2 hour project, and super for a bit of quick-fix sewing. The newsboy cap pattern I picked up the pattern af Craftsy. It’s a free pattern, and you can find it here. (If you haven’t heard of Craftsy you should go and take a look. I haven’t tried any of their online classes yet, but I have picked up the odd pattern there.) The newsboy cap pattern consist of a top part, a side/front part and a brim. The instructions are easy to understand and with illustrations of most of the steps. And as I said, its free. I made a few changes to the pattern though.  I made the width a bit smaller from approx. middle of the sides and to the front on both the top and side piece, as both my husband and I thought that the whole cap was a little too wide. The brim was also made a bit shorter to give it the shape my husband wanted. In the photo above you can see the shape of the brim is different on the pattern piece lying next to it. That[…]

Mustard Jenna Cardi

Mustard Jenna Cardi

Hi. Here in Norway the winter has come for sure. Just look at the weather outside my window as I type this. Winter for me means wool. I will wear nothing but wool during the winter season if I can. Today I have a wool cardigan to show you. The pattern: Jenna Cardi from Muse patterns.   Customizing the Jenna Cardi pattern I have made this pattern twice. The second jacket, which is the one I will show you today, is the hip length version with long sleeves (variation A, bottom). To make the cardigan a little less plain I decided to make it with pleated sleeve heads. I searched a while in my patten books and found out how to do it in Metric pattern cutting for women’s wear by Winifred Aldrich. Here is what I did: First I made an horizontal line across the sleeve head above the marks. I then cut the top of the sleeve head into four sections and pulled them up and away from each other. I drew in the new outer line and marked the gaps on the pattern piece. I must admit I forgot about the fact that the pattern already had the seam allowance counted in, so I didn’t make the gaps as big as they should have been. Still, I got some of the effect I was after, and so I’m happy.   I also did my usual pattern changes: lengthening the upper body with 4 cm, and adjusted shoulder seams for forward tilting shoulders.[…]

Butterick B5317 dress

Butterick B5317 dress

Butterick B5317 At the beginning of 2014 I decided to do something about my wardrobe. It was time to throw out a lot of the clothes in my closet and instead focus on having a smaller number of key garments that I could mix and match. I will not tell you here about how the project ended ( if it indeed did. I’m not too sure..), but I want to show off one of the first dresses I made last year. The dress was part of a dresses sew-along in an Norwegian online community called “Sykroken.no” and the pattern I used was Butterick B5317 by Maggy London. The pattern I don’t remember where I bought the pattern any longer, but I think it was from an online pattern store. Butterick B5317 is a dress with a no sleeves/caped sleeves option, and a low cut neck opening for both back and front, an empire waist. The skirt has lots of big pleats that are sewn shut from the empire waistline and down to about the true waist, which gives you a slender waist and a full skirt at the same time. The pattern is labeled Very Easy, which I’m sure is correct as long as you stick to the recommended fabrics. The fabric I used I have a tendency lately to go for more advanced fabrics, but for this dress I didn’t. I used a wool/viscose blend that has a nice body and drape to it. I bought the fabric from Stoff&Stil, but as it has been a year, it’s no longer[…]

Burda 7022 Mens trousers

Burda 7022 Mens trousers

Today I want to show you the Bunda 7022 trousers I made for my man last year. It the brown trousers you could see in the posting about this wool vest last week. The fabric A few years ago (or a little more than that) my mother in law came back from a holiday with a few fabrics for me. One of them was a beautiful wool-cashmere fabric in dark brown. My husband wanted me to make him a pair of trousers with it. It has taken me a while, but they are finally finished. The Burda 7022 pattern He wanted classic suit style pair of trousers. The first pattern I found was the Vogue 2836 mens suit pattern.I started tracing the pattern of the trousers to make the muslin, but got discouraged by all the pattern pieces. I lay the project dead for a while. This was about 6 years ago. 😛 Then last year I found a new pattern that seemed a lot more promising. It was the Burda 7022. It too is a suit style trouser, but a bit more modern. The style has a single pleat in front, a double welt pocket at the backside and two different options for leg width. My man chose option A. The making. This time I managed to stay inspired, and finished the trousers in a week or two. I don’t really have all that much sewing time each day . I made a muslin to check the fit. There were very few adjustments I had to do. The size 48[…]

Det Store Symesterskapet – 4th Episode

Det Store Symesterskapet – 4th Episode

Hi there So, now we have been through yet another episode of Det Store Symesterskapet. 🙂 This time we had to make a men’s vest, redesign a wetsuit into a skirt, and make a childrens party dress. First assignment: Gentleman’s vest.  This was the first mens pattern we were given. Sewing a classic gentleman’s vest is not easy, as well you know if you ever have tried it. The trick to it, as the judges pointed out, is to use understitching everywhere you can get at it. Without any understitching it’s not possible to press the pieces without any of the lining showing, and get that sharp edge you so much want in a garment like this. Lessoned learned there. For my vest I chose a very nice brocade fabric, with a distinct pattern. The low points with the fabric were that it frayed easily, and didn’t press too well. Too much heat – and it would melt.  Just as Willy found out, unfortunately. I was a bit pressed for time at the end, and as a closing I chose a hook and bar solution in brass. It turned out rather cool I think. Kristin won this first assignment – well deserved. Her vest was by far the best one. I came in at a second place, which I was happy with. I sewed a new vest just this last month -for my husband. You can read about it here. Thanks to the lessoned learned at Det Store Symesterskapet this vest turned out really well.[…]

Wool vest for my husband

Wool vest for my husband

It’s time to show you another make for my husband. I’m so lucky that I have a husband that’s proud of my hobby and all the time comes up with new projects he wants me to make. Lately I love making clothes for him as he usually loves them and they get a lot of wear. Menswear presents other challenges for me, as they often are more classic and rule-bound. (I know Walter), there are exceptions, of course. 😉 This time he wanted me to make him a vest, or waistcoat if you will. The pattern  The pattern is  Burda # 7799, that I bought through Fagert.se -one of the on-line pattern sites I like to order from. The pattern comes with several different views, but my man wanted the classic collar view (a). Taking the measurements and controlling the pattern pieces I decided to go down a size from the recommended, and made the smallest size. Tracing the pattern I discovered that the pattern was without lining -something that’s fine if you make a denim style vest with topstitching, but just won’t do with a classic gentleman’s waistcoat in wool and satin. Making the lining wasn’t really a problem. The backside pieces I could just make in double set, and the front had a front facing. I traced the front piece one extra time and subtracted the shape of the front facing omitting the dart in the process. No need for a dart when it can be “lost” between the front lining and the front[…]

My finished biker jacket!

My finished biker jacket!

My finished biker jacket! Finally. I have attached the cuffs and sewed the opening in the lining, and now I’m done. Heres a brief account of some of the troubles I had in making this jacket, in addition to photos of the finished garment of course. The two post I made on the progress you can find here and here.  First times second This is the first time I make a lined jacket, and the second time I’ve sewn any jacket at all. The first time was the velvet jacket I made on Det Store Symesterskapet last week. You can read about that one here, but for now lets focus on the biker jacket at hand. Pattern corrections As I said, -first time I made a fully lined jacket. The pattern I used wasn’t really that good for the task, as it was meant as a thin summer jacket style in raw silk as I told you about in my first “in progress” posting on the project. I used the next largest size (40) when making my toile, and as expected it proved too small. Not always so easy to listen to ones inner self. 😉 Instead of then tracing the the biggest size, as I should have, I decided to go with the size I had already cut out and enlarge it. I made a real hack’n’slash job out of it I’m afraid, and of course then the fit proved to be rather less than desirable once assembled. For one, I made it way too big. Corrections, more corrections I took[…]

Det Store Symesterskapet – 3rd Episode.

Hi again So, now they have sent yet another episode of Det Store Symesterskapet. Did you see it? And if you did -did you like it? This was a really fun episode I thought. Below is my account of the episode and what I made. The first assignment: Vintage pattern. This time we were given a vintage pattern to make. If you have ever tried sewing with vintage patterns you know that they aren’t quite like the the same as modern patterns. For one there are no markings on the pattern pieces for you to lean on. We were given a 70’s blouse pattern, and the design had a lot of gathering -around the neck and cuffs. I thought I would find a fabric with a nice drape to it to get the most out of the design. I found a fabric I wanted to use, -I think it was a viscose or polyester satin. Not the easiest to cut and sew, but the result would be worth it. The fabric had big white “bombs” in it, but I was just a tiny bit sheer, so I could quite easily line up the pattern pieces to get in straight on grain. -Something that is important when you work with symmetrical prints.Unfortunately there wasn’t enough fabric for the whole blouse so I had to find a second fabric to use for the sleeves. I needed something with the same or similar drape. There wasn’t a lot of fabrics to choose from with that in mind, but[…]

Colette patterns Moneta dress

Colette patterns Moneta dress

Have you seen the stretch fabric dress pattern Colette Patterns released earlier this year? The Moneta dress. I’m not really a big fan of PDF patterns, but somehow I just had to have this pattern. I made a jersey dress with the pattern this summer, and now I have made a winter version that will see me through the cold season. The fabric is a wool/acrylic blend from Rainbow Tekstil with small colour-full dots, almost like slub-yarn. The fabric was somewhat see-through, so I knew from the start that I would have to line it. The lining fabric I chose was a 1×1 rib wool fabric from Janus. I absolutely love the colour -a bright fuchsia colour. However, this two knitted fabrics are quite different when it comes to stretchiness. The main fabric has hardly any stretch to it at all. And the wool rib lining had maybe as much as 20 % stretchability. Oho. Combining stretch fabrics When you want to combine two fabrics with very different stretch abilities there are a few things you’ll have to remember. For one check that what you want to do is at all achievable. Then you will have to cut the most stretchy fabric smaller than the not so stretchy one. Fore me, that meant that I cut the lining approx. 2 sizes smaller than the shell. I decided not to line the sleeves, as that’s a place where see-through-ness  isn’t really a problem. I lined the body and overlocked the sleeves to both layers in one operation.[…]

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Wool Skirt, Butterick B5859

Autumn is here. The temperature, so recently warm and nice has dropped, and there is a crispness to the air, and a promiss of winter coming. What better time to be inside preparing and sewing up warm garments to suite the new season. First skirt up: wool skirt, Butterick B5859. I must admit I really LOVE autumn. – the sunny days where you can see for miles through the clear air, and the beautiful colours that appears all around me. Intense colours of yellow, orange and auburn. I also love the quiet evenings when I can cuddle up in the sofa under a home-made blanket and knit and watch TV. Even the rainy days when the world goes all grey and mystic -those are great for staying inside sewing. -But maybe that’s just me.   Winter wardrobe preparations. The change in season means different things are required of my wardrobe to keep me warm and nice, while still looking sharp. I love wool, and most of my autumn and winter makes are in wool or wool blend. In a wool skirt or dress you still get to show off some legs, and at the same time keep nice and warm. Today I will show you one of my favourite autumn/winter wool skirts. The bell-shaped skirt These are the changes I made:The original pattern for this wool skirt is the Butterick B5859 but I made quite a few changes to this pattern. The original pattern is a knee length bell-shaped skirt in sort of a 1940s style, but[…]